All of it seems so, well familiar. I barely make a turn without knowing, or think I know that I’ve been there before even though in all probability I haven’t. Or there is the possibility that I have. Could it be the flint stone walls and mix of Edwardian and Thirties and nondescript suburban architecture and homes with front gardens or perhaps the 180 degrees skyline and delicious air scented with salt and vegetation.
Could it be the smell of two stroke when the Lambrettas overladen with an excess of chrome mirrors assemble at the Martello Tower and the frequency with which I come upon the sort of British motors we passed on our journeys too and from back then; there seems to be a particular fascination with Morris Minors, convertible Triumph Heralds and P6 Rovers.
I was maybe five or six years when I first encountered the softly rolling meadows of The South Downs from the back seat of was it a Morris, or Ford Consul or maybe a grey Austin Cambridge with red leather upholstery. A breakfast cereal size box of Smiths potato crisps between my legs (salt yourself from a twisted blue wrapper). Long days of flickering country lanes with petrol stations appearing out of nowhere amid the beech and oak and miles of shadows. Men in overalls would nod and smile before noisily inserting the pump into the tank: “one shot or two?” Equally remote, as if emerging from some distant civilisation the pubs where we sat in a garden (children not admitted within) and I would be handed a shandy and more crisps or with luck a ploughman’s lunch.
I travel those lanes today, or is it others that appear the same?
A different air and different light to the affluent and effluent south west London suburbia where in winter months we’d wear ‘smog masks’ to and from school. But there in Sussex you could taste the cleanliness and the closer we got to the sea the excitement with it. That endless low wall around Petworth House on approach to the town bearing the house’s name a sign we were nearly there. The precipitous streets of Arundel soon be featured in a television drama. The Swan Inn Fittleworth, Pulborough, Chanctonbury Ring (a particular favourite of my father’s who had a thing for rural landmarks) and other way points to be ticked off and enjoyed on our countdown to the coast.
And the junction somewhere on the A283 where on our way home mum brought her argument with dad to a close by insisting he stop the car so she could get out. And she did. I didn’t know what she intended to do and I didn’t think she did either although I was too young to know any better. We didn’t walk in those days and she had an aversion to it. I remember her frowning at friends and others who exalted in muddy hikes; an early manifestation of recoiling from political correctness perhaps? I remember dad turning the car around a few minutes later to find her at the place she’d got out.
The Downs fanning out into the distance as curvaceous and smooth as bars of soap. And thence to the flint and terracotta topped walls and facias and suburban seaside homes of Littlehampton and the white stucco seafront promenades of Eastbourne and just the once or was it twice Worthing that mum disliked having an aversion to the smell of seaweed. Streets of mugwort and cedar and shops bedecked with buckets and spades. The scent of frying and salt but somehow cleaner and not in the least bit offensive. Breath it in. The smell of happiness. No fear of hay fever here. A place I knew so well where life felt slower, easier and quieter but with amusement arcades and inflatable airbeds and car inner tubes as rubber rings and diving platforms. No wonder so many sold their homes up country to be mocked by seeing out their days in bungalows amid a melody of gulls. With a miniature railway and sea views and ices with sticks of chocolate plunged in at jaunty angles.
I remember a woman probably not much older than I now who’d suffered some medical condition but with enough spirit to sing loudly with abandon songs she’d known as a youngster. And another time when someone remarked how important, indeed necessary, it is to make memories as we age due to newness becoming rarer. Could it be that without some originality we subliminally fill the void with the past? Have I been here before or just think I have? Is it those mnemonic triggers? Sensations not even considered at the time but that are nonetheless profound flashbacks of familiarity?
I reflected upon this on the A259 with the South Downs on my left and Beachy Head on my right and ahead of me Eastbourne where once upon a long while ago we’d visit Uncle Herbert in his nursing home on the promenade. He presented me with his pith helmet a souvenir from his African expeditions and an ornamental blue and white life ring. I had many uncles and aunties back then, few of them related to me. It seemed that any adult friend or acquaintance, anyone on the in with my parents, were were respected as such. One such uncle, by then in his 80s, reprimanded me addressing him thus at mother’s funeral. I told him old habits are hard to break. He winced and took another hit of cognac. Across the bay in the distance Bexhill-On-Sea and beyond the chalk cliffs of Hastings. A mighty view by any stretch and I’d smelt that sweet saline air and seen that intense light before. I’d enjoyed those verdant avenues of handsome flint stone walled villas. It had felt good whenever that was and is just as good now.
It could all be wrong, a misunderstanding. I read somewhere that deja vu may be an early sign of dementia. An inactive hippocampus; maybe retired and god forbid housebound and as such idle searching for anything to analyse and scrutinise and with little to engage it having to delve into familiarity to avert listless brain cells receding into oblivion.
Maybe so. But equally could it be all those hundreds of hours in the backseat of a car staring at redbrick and flint-stone walls and 1930s semis with front gardens with lawns and flowers and not cars and orange housing estates springing up in the post war rebuild where land was cheap and a pre-gentrification ordinariness and a verdant freshness combined to create a scene perhaps not as a welcoming and safe as home but as close as I’m going to get short of returning to Whitton, which frankly was never as much fun.
With vertiginous Eastbourne Old Town giving way to elevated meadows of livestock the traffic slowed down for not one but two penny farthing bicycles. Smell is the most pervasive and persuasive sense we have said a friend on the phone upon reaching the summit. Those olfactory nerves more energising than any other human detector. Memories and feelings and sights and sounds we may not register as special at the time but which are burnt into our DNA through our noses. Is that why each turn, each backstreet cut-through and playing field, every headland and hum drum suburban ungentrified parade of shops, may have been passed through before, and if not then another so similar as if to be the same.
Taking a break in one of those cut-throughs, The Crouch in the heart of town just one flint-stone arch away from the bowling green and the Cinq Ports pub, another old friend called to see how we were getting on? I sat on a bench close to the Community Garden and replied that it’s like living in the Truman Show set in Hounslow in the 1970s, but by the sea. Whereupon a woman with the shopping trolley having overheard me stopped. “It is ,” she said – and I love it!” I wonder if it brings back memories for her?













